February 11, 2013

That was what this weekend was about; it was about the journey much more so than about the destination.  The destination for this weekend was that we were going to see the sunrise at the Bromo volcano.  But that actually became the sideshow at most.  It started with the train ride from Semarang to Surabaya.

The train was supposed to leave at 3:30 pm.  At about 3:15 Erni gets back to the office.  I ask her if we were still going to be able to catch the train. “No worry, Tanja, As usual train late, 2-3 hours.”  By the time we got to the train station, the train was already there.  Train no usual this time!  When we get into the station there is train about to leave. The way you get into the train is by putting steps in front of it.  They were already removed.  Erni convinced some official looking person to replace the steps and we clime it, in which I thought was our train.  Wrong.  As soon as we get on it, Erni climbs out on the other side by way of a pole and than she jumps on the tracks.  Come on, Tanja, hurry! So there I go jumping on the tracks, racing after Erni to get to the next train.  We were hauled into the train (no steps there) by an other official looking person while the train starts moving.  We made it.  When we fall in our seats, Erni starts laughing hard slapping her knees and stamping her feed (Indonesians have a child like way of expressing joy).  “Adventure started, Tanja”.  Yes, and that was only the beginning.

In Surabaya we were picked up by Petjong (hope I spell this right), a friend of Erni’s.  Next step, picking-up Marnix, who flew in from Jakarta. By midnight we are our way to Bromo, were we are supposed to start climbing at 4 am to catch the sunrise.  Well, we got caught in a traffic jam at 2 am (never seen so many trucks in the middle of the night on a little mountain road).  Catching the sunrise was not going to happen so we changed our plans and went to the Ijen volcano instead (we had planned to do that on Sunday).  I thought it was close by.  Ha-ha, nothing is close by.  We got there around 11 am (napped a little in the car) driving through the most stunning countryside I have ever seen.  The hike up the volcano is about 4 km of pretty steep climbing.  We started enthusiastically but about half way in I though, screw the volcano, I am dying.  Marnix had already left me behind and Erni was dragging behind me (smokes too much, like all Indonesians).  I thought she would be really glad if I told her I am giving up.  Hell no.  When she saw me she said: Promise adventure, Tanja.  We go!  Slave driver! But I am so glad she was.  Seeing the crater of the Ijen Volcano is absolutely stunning.  The walls are gray and yellow and the crater lake is the most beautiful color of turquoise.  This is a volcano that is actually minded for sulfa.  Koelies (carriers) are going up the volcano 2-3 times a day to carry down two baskets (40 lbs each) down the mountain.  National Geographic did a report on this not that long ago. But, it is amazing that this is still done manually.  But that is true for so many things in Indonesia.  For example, most of the agriculture activities are done manually. Instead of parking meters and garages guys show up where ever you want to park to help you in and most importantly help you out.  This is for an other blog, though. Back to the journey of the volcanos.  After climbing the Ijen and struggling back (mind you had not seen a bed in 24 hours) we continued our journey back again to the Bromo.  Had not given up on the original plan.  We left around Saturday 4 pm.  After about 2-3 hours Petjon asked if we mind taking a shower at his brother’s place.  Sounded good to us as we were all smelling like match sticks form all that sulfa smoke.  At brother’s, Marnix and I actually crashed in a bed (wow what luxury) for a few hours to be awaken at around 1 pm.  I spend the next few hours sort of dozing or at last keeping my eyes closed so I wouldn’t get a heart attack from the way Petjon (and other drivers for that matter) weaves in and out of traffic.  It was still dark when we arrived at the village near the Bromo (high in the mountains).  It was full of jeeps and motorcycles ready to bring tourists to the top (you can’t walk to it in the dark).  As we had our own jeep we started crossing what seem to be a big sand box.  After about 20 minutes Erni and Petjon got out of the jeep and started negotiating with some guys outside.  Next thing Marnix and I know is we are on motorbikes and starting the most thrilling part of our journey.  My God, it was dark, cold and just so exciting to be on the back of a motorbike going up this steep mountain road.  To be honest nothing could beat that.  The sunrise was sort of a let down.  Yes it is pretty, but you have to watch it with hundreds of other people.  The decent, again on motorbikes was much more breathtaking.  Just see the pictures.  After all of this, it is only about 8 am.  The day had just started, enough time to go and have breakfast (Pegel a sort of salad with peanut sauce and hot coffee with Ginger to wash it way. Delicious!) and continue our exploration of the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park.  Driving through the most stunning mountain scenery we arrived at a little hamlet where we started our climb to see Madakaripura Waterfall.  Words can’t describe its beauty.

We ended this smorgasbord of Indonesian’s natural beauty with a shower in a public rest top and prayer for Petjon in the mosque.

What an adventure!